Interview with a perfume critic: Evaluation and reviews of popular fragrances.
The author of this article is a renowned fragrance expert with over a decade of experience in the industry. With a passion for fragrances and a discerning palate, the author has written extensively on the art of perfumery for various publications.
Perfume critic: a rare profession. It is a person who has dedicated their life to studying fragrances, their history, composition, and cultural impact.
We spoke with Alexey, a perfume critic with 15 years of experience, author of over 500 reviews. He told us how to evaluate fragrances professionally and why some perfumes are praised while others are unfairly forgotten.
How to become a perfume critic
Alexey started 15 years ago: he ran a blog where he honestly wrote about what he smelled. At first, no one read it. Later, they noticed him for his honesty. A perfume critic is not just someone who loves perfumes. It is someone who can break down a fragrance into its components.
What you need to know and be able to do
- Train your nose: distinguish dozens of notes in a composition
- Know history: without context, evaluation is incomplete
- Be honest: paid reviews kill trust
- Know how to write: describing a scent with words is harder than it seems
- Don't be afraid to be wrong: tastes change
How to evaluate fragrances: the critic's system
He uses 5 criteria: longevity, sillage, complexity of the pyramid, originality, and value for money. Each criterion is rated from 1 to 10.
| Criteria | What is evaluated | Weight in evaluation |
|---|---|---|
| Longevity | How long the fragrance lasts on the skin | 20% |
| Sillage | How the fragrance projects in space | 15% |
| Pyramid | Complexity and harmony of the development | 30% |
| Originality | How different the fragrance is from others | 20% |
| Price and quality | Correspondence of cost to quality | 15% |
Final score: weighted average. Simple but effective. The best way not to be mistaken: don't trust just one review.
What annoys a critic in reviews
- "Smells expensive or rich": the most meaningless characteristic
- Judging from the first spray without waiting for the development
- Blind recommendations without considering skin type
- Copying press releases instead of expressing your own opinion
90% of online reviews are rewritten press releases. True criticism begins where politeness ends.
Trends through the eyes of a critic
The main trend for 2025–2026: a return to leather. Many fragrances with notes of leather, suede, tobacco. People want sensual scents.
The second trend: conscious consumption. People buy less, but better quality. Niche brands are growing, mass market is losing ground.
5 fragrances worth knowing
- Chanel No 5: the benchmark of aldehydic style
- Dior Fahrenheit: a revolution in men's perfumery
- Guerlain Shalimar: the first oriental fragrance
- Acqua di Gio: a symbol of marine freshness
- Le Labo Santal 33: an iconic niche fragrance
Critic's advice: don't try to buy everything at once. Cultural knowledge is built over years. Start with the five pillars above, then go deeper.
How not to fall for marketing
Alexey suggests a simple test. Close your eyes, apply the fragrance to a blotter. If after 5 minutes you can't describe it with at least three words, it's a marketing gimmick.
A good fragrance always evokes associations. A bad one: just "smells nice."
Alexey is one of the critics I trust. His evaluation system is simple and transparent. There is no room for subjective “like it or not.” Just facts, pyramid, and feelings.
I especially appreciate his approach to educating readers. He doesn't say “buy this,” he explains why it deserves your attention.
Perfume criticism is not about “bad” or “good.” It's about understanding. The deeper you understand fragrances, the more enjoyment you get.
Smell consciously. Analyze. And remember: the best fragrance is the one you understand.
