Oriental Gourmet by Xerjoff
An outstanding perfumery specialist with a wealth of experience and passion for the world of fragrances. Her expertise in this niche of women's perfumery for over a decade allows her to unravel the mysteries of fragrances
There are fragrances that smell like your favorite dessert. Not abstractly sweet, but specifically: almond cookies, warm milk, vanilla cream. Italica by Xerjoff is exactly that.
In the world of niche perfumery, this composition has gathered a fan base and sparked intense debates. Some call it the best gourmand fragrance of the decade. Others grimace: too sweet, too heavy.
Who is right? Let's find out.
What is Italica and why is everyone talking about it?
Italica (2021) is a reissue of a fragrance from the Casamorati 1888 collection, owned by the Italian house Xerjoff. The original was released in 2016, but the real buzz came with the new bottle.
The perfume is built around an alliance of almond and milk. Sounds simple. But inside lies complex work: saffron adds a subtle spiciness, toffee brings buttery sweetness, and Bourbon vanilla lingers for hours in the base.
Xerjoff is an Italian niche house founded in 2004 in Turin. Their fragrances regularly appear in top lists, and Casamorati 1888 is an homage to a historic 19th-century perfume workshop.
On the official website, the perfume is described as "warm and full." And that's an understatement. Italica is a bomb. One spray creates such a sillage that people turn around. Longevity: 8-10 hours on skin and a day on clothes.
Fragrance Pyramid
| Level | Notes | Character |
|---|---|---|
| Top Notes | Almond, Milk, Saffron | Creamy start with a slight sharpness |
| Middle Notes | Toffee, Bourbon Vanilla | Sweet core, sticky and deep |
| Base Notes | Sandalwood, White Musk | Warm woody-powdery base |
The table looks dry, but on the skin, everything comes alive. The first minutes are nutty-milky tenderness. Then toffee enters, thick as caramel, and vanilla that does not become cloying. The base keeps the scent close to the skin but doesn't let it disappear.
Who is it for?
Italica is not an everyday fragrance and certainly not an office option. It's an evening story. A date, a cozy dinner, a cold winter evening with a blanket.
It unfolds best in cool weather. In heat, the milky notes can develop an unexpected sourish tinge—this is mentioned in half of the negative reviews.
By character, Italica leans towards the feminine side, although many men also wear it and receive compliments. The perfume is not about gender, but about mood.
Interesting fact: the original 2016 version came in a velvety bottle, while the 2021 reissue received a glossy case. The composition remained the same—the update was purely visual.
How does Italica compare to other gourmands from Xerjoff?
If you are already familiar with the house of Xerjoff, you've probably heard of Xerjoff Lira. It's another famous gourmand fragrance from the brand, but it sounds different: lemon-caramel, with an accent on licorice and cinnamon. Lira is lighter, airier; Italica is denser and milkier.
And if you want something floral-powdery from the same Casamorati collection, look towards Xerjoff Dama Bianca. It's softer, iris-based, without gourmand heaviness.
Italica is the choice of those who are not afraid of sweetness and appreciate silence in a fragrance. And those who seek a statement scent, not a background smell.
Why is there so much debate around Italica?
The fragrance's rating on Fragrantica is 3.81 out of 5. Seems okay. But if you scroll through reviews, the picture is mixed: from "the best gourmand fragrance in the world" to "I feel sick from one sniff."
Why is that? The milk molecule in perfumery is a tricky thing. For some, it gives cozy creaminess. For others, it reminds of warm milk—and then personal aversion to the smell kicks in. Add saffron with its medicinal undertone—and half the audience is weeded out.
I bought Italica blindly on a blogger's recommendation. First test - horror: smells like sour almonds. Put it in a box for six months. Took it out in winter - and fell in love. Now it's my evening ritual. - from a Fragrantica review
There are many such stories. Italica is a fragrance that needs to be savored. It doesn't reveal itself on the first spray. And that is its strength: those who go through "dislike - like - adore" stay with it for a long time.
Italica is a provocative fragrance. It doesn't try to please everyone. And that's great. I recommend trying it in cold weather, on clean skin, without other perfumes. And give it at least an hour. If after an hour you find yourself sniffing your wrist again, it's your scent.
As for nuances: don't apply more than two sprays. Italica unfolds fully even from one press. Three sprays and you risk becoming the aromatic center of attention in the entire restaurant.
Characteristics in numbers
- Longevity: 8–10 hours on skin, up to 24 hours on clothes
- Sillage: strong, active in the first 2–3 hours
- Season: autumn, winter, early spring
- Occasion: evening outings, dates, cozy evenings
- Concentration: Eau de Parfum
- Volume: 30 ml, 50 ml, 100 ml
If you're looking for a dense sweet fragrance with character, Italica is one to try. It leaves no one indifferent. And in the world of perfumery, that's already an achievement.
