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Eau de parfum
Coquillete Underdog
Gender:
Unisex
Segment:
Lux perfumes
Fragrance information:
Coquillete Underdog — a fragrance with character
Coquillete Underdog is a 2025 unisex eau de parfum from Coquillete, an Italian perfume house founded in 2012 by Élise Jouarros and Rosa Vaia.
The name alone evokes a story of independence, inner strength and the desire to follow one’s own path.
This is an expressive composition for those who enjoy fragrances with a noticeable presence, a multifaceted development and an unconventional combination of fresh, floral, resinous and woody accords.
Underdog was created by Rosa Vaia and Luigi Marilliano.
Their olfactory concept is built on contrast: a sparkling citrus opening gradually becomes deeper, warmer and darker, while the drydown leaves behind a rich woody-musky trail.
As a result, the fragrance feels less like a carefree everyday companion and more like a confident olfactory statement that can easily become part of your personal style.
Character and development
At first, Coquillete Underdog comes across as fresh and energetic: bergamot and grapefruit add juiciness and a subtle bitterness, while wine nuances make the opening unusual and slightly more sensual.
As it develops, the transparent citrus notes give way to a resinous-spicy heart, where rose and ylang-ylang sound expressive without turning the fragrance into a classic floral composition.
The base reveals Underdog’s main strength — a deep woody accord of cedar, oud, vetiver and Akigalawood.
A tobacco nuance adds a dry warmth, while benzoin and tonka bean soften the composition, and grey amber and musk support its volume and lasting presence.
Thanks to this balance, the fragrance can feel simultaneously strict, sensual and slightly provocative.
Who it suits and when to wear it
Positioned as a unisex fragrance, it does not seek to emphasize either a distinctly feminine or masculine character.
On one person’s skin, it may unfold in a spicier, woodier direction; on another, it may highlight citrus freshness, floral nuances or a soft amber warmth.
Underdog feels especially at home in cool weather, in the evening, and at meetings or events where the fragrance has room to fully unfold.
Its sillage is described as very strong, so it is best to start with a cautious amount.
No precise recommendations for the number of sprays on skin or clothing have been provided for this release; a practical approach is to apply a small amount to the pulse points and assess the intensity after a few minutes.
On clothing, the composition may smell more pronounced and last longer, so a minimal amount is sufficient.
Underdog in Coquillete’s perfumery style
Underdog continues the contrast-driven approach characteristic of niche perfumery and presents the brand from a bolder, more intense perspective.
Its olfactory profile combines balsamic, floral and woody families, with citrus, beverage, spicy, white-floral, musky and animalic facets particularly prominent among the notes.
If you enjoy expressive fragrances with a dark woody base and powerful sillage, you may also want to explore The Different Company Red Burning Night.
Jean Paul Gaultier La Favorite is another alternative worth considering, although Coquillete Underdog has a more resinous-woody character and a wine-infused citrus opening.
No other concentrations of this fragrance are listed in the database.
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