Scent as part of identity: finding your perfume signature
There are people we recognize before we see them. They are still in the hallway, but their familiar ...
Kokeshi is more than just a perfume brand; it is an entire world where French perfumery tradition meets the poetic aesthetic of Japan. Founded in 2016 in France, this house established itself from the very beginning as a creator of unusual, touching, and very personal fragrances. Its philosophy is built on the idea that perfume is not just a scent, but a talisman capable of conveying emotion, giving confidence, or becoming a keeper of memories. The visual embodiment of this philosophy is the traditional Japanese wooden dolls, kokeshi, which gave the brand its name and served as the model for iconic bottles.
Interesting fact: the production and distribution of Kokeshi perfumes was handled by the French company Millennium Perfumes, founded by spouses Priscilla and Frederic Bolieu. Their experience in creating fragrances for third-party brands allowed Kokeshi to achieve a high level of quality and aesthetics from the start.
True masters of their craft worked on creating the perfume compositions for Kokeshi. The first releases were crafted by the famous perfumer Michele Saramito, known for his work with Guerlain and Marc Jacobs. Later, Mathieu Nardin joined the project, whose style is valued by niche perfume enthusiasts. Through their collaborative efforts, a portfolio of fragrances was created, each telling its own story and symbolizing a certain quality.
The brand offered a clear division: delicate, floral-fruity compositions for girls and spicier, woody ones for boys. Thus, the fragrance Kokeshi - Lotus embodied pure beauty, the playful Kokeshi - Litchee became a symbol of love, and the sunny Kokeshi - Cheery promised luck. In the men's line, the warm and confident Kokeshi - Tonka (strength) and the fresh Kokeshi - Bambu, dedicated to friendship, stood out.
2016 was a turning point for the brand when eccentric American fashion designer and creative director of Moschino Jeremy Scott was brought on board. His task was to rethink the visual presentation. The result exceeded all expectations: Scott created bottle designs in the form of stylized kokeshi dolls with signature mohawk hairstyles and bold accents. These bottles, released in a limited edition, instantly transformed the perfumes from children's items into cult collectibles for adult design enthusiasts.
Today, the "by Jeremy Scott" versions—such as Tonka by Jeremy Scott or Lotus By Jeremy Scott—are the most sought-after by collectors. They represent a unique moment in the brand's history when perfumery met high fashion on the grounds of pop art.
Aiming to expand its reach, in 2017 Kokeshi introduced the Arabian Kokeshi line, created specifically for the Middle Eastern audience. It included two single-note fragrances: the rich and deep Kokeshi - Oud and the warm, honeyed Kokeshi - Amber. These compositions, aimed at a more mature audience, demonstrated the brand's flexibility and respect for local perfumery traditions.
Unfortunately, as of today, the Kokeshi brand no longer releases new fragrances and, according to many sources, has ceased active operations. This makes existing bottles, especially the limited editions with Jeremy Scott, true perfume rarities. For connoisseurs, they represent not just perfumes, but an artifact of a unique perfumery-artistic experiment where naivety and depth, East and West, are intertwined.
Exploring Kokeshi fragrances today, you discover a time capsule—a touching, colorful, and bold project that, despite its short history, managed to leave a bright mark in the world of niche perfumery and gain cult status.
| Number of fragrances | 13 |
| Collections (1) | Arabian Kokeshi |
| Segment | Premium perfumery |
| Founded | 2016 |
| Official website | http://www.parfums-kokeshi.com |
There are people we recognize before we see them. They are still in the hallway, but their familiar ...
Fashion for speed is getting tired. While mass-market competes in loudness of sillage, another appro...
We are used to thinking of perfume as pure art: the perfumer's inspiration, a beautiful story, a bot...
Join the Fragsi community and get access to all its features