licorice flower in perfumery — history, best perfumes, perfumers, pairings

What Is the Liquorice Flower Note

The liquorice flower is a rare and refined floral note that brings a sweet, spicy-aniseed nuance with a soft balsamic trail to perfume compositions. Unlike the root of licorice, whose scent is more intense and "edible," the flowers of liquorice (Glycyrrhiza glabra) give the fragrance airiness, delicate powderiness, and a hint of green. This note can make a composition both cozy and mysterious, evoking meadow grasses and summer sun.

Characteristics and Olfactory Profile

The liquorice flower note belongs to the floral olfactory family, but its scent is hardly classic floral. It combines sweetness with a slight bitterness, warm, almost vanilla nuances, and a subtle anise accent. In the fragrance pyramid, the liquorice flower is most often found in the "heart," connecting the top notes with the base. The note's longevity is moderate, with a soft, enveloping sillage. Due to its character, it is ideal for autumn and spring compositions, adding depth and layering.

Origin and Extraction of the Note

Liquorice, or licorice root, grows in Southern Europe, Asia, and the Middle East. In perfumery, not only the famous root is used but also the small violet-blue flowers gathered in clusters. The scent of the flowers is obtained by steam distillation or solvent extraction, producing an absolute that is prized for its longevity and complexity. Today, due to the rarity of the raw material, perfumers often combine natural extracts with synthetic molecules to more accurately reproduce the delicate scent of the flowering liquorice. This makes the note accessible while preserving its uniqueness.

Popular Fragrances with Liquorice Flower

Although the note is not common, it has won the hearts of niche and designer fragrance enthusiasts. One striking example is the fragrance Ron Marone — City Girl London, where the liquorice flower is framed by juicy fruits and woody accents, creating the image of a confident, elegant modern woman. Also interesting is the work Dua Fragrances — Gold Caramel's Delight Fluid (mentioned in the encyclopedia), where the sweetness of liquorice intertwines with caramel and gourmand notes. The brand Ron Marone uses this note to emphasize the individuality and boldness of its perfume stories.

What Pairs Well with Liquorice Flower

The liquorice flower is an amazing "chameleon": it harmonizes equally well with floral, spicy, woody, and gourmand notes. Classic accords include violet, iris, anise, almond, and vanilla. Paired with white flowers (jasmine, orange blossom), the liquorice sweetness becomes more transparent; with dark resins and leather notes, it acquires sensual depth. There are few similar notes in perfumery: one might recall violet flower (similar powderiness) or licorice root (but that is less floral). Experimenting with compositions, perfumers often "befriend" liquorice with coumarin, tonka beans, and labdanum, giving birth to warming, intellectual fragrances.

Tips for Choosing and Who It Suits

Fragrances with a liquorice flower note are worth trying for those who love unusual and multifaceted compositions, avoiding banal sweet or sharp smells. This note unfolds beautifully on the skin in cool weather, so the best seasons for it are spring and autumn. If you prefer light, transparent fragrances, look for compositions where liquorice plays a supporting role, in tandem with citrus or green notes. For evening outings, rich perfumes where liquorice flower intertwines with leather, cedar, or gourmand accents are ideal. The key is to let the fragrance "breathe" on the skin: after 15–20 minutes, it will reveal itself in all its multifaceted glory.

Why You Should Get to Know This Note

The liquorice flower is that rare ingredient that can surprise even a seasoned perfume enthusiast. It combines natural elegance and bold originality, while remaining cozy and understandable. If you are tired of the usual roses, jasmine, and lavender, pay attention to fragrances with this note — perhaps they will become your new olfactory discovery. Browse the catalog to find compositions with liquorice flower, and share your impressions in the comments!