Shalimar: the history of the first amber fragrance
There are fragrances that smell like perfume. And then there are those that smell like a legend. Sha...
Merlin Cleoff is a name well known to all fans of niche perfumery. He is not just a perfumer, but a true architect of fragrances and owner of the brand Lost Academy. His perfumes are a bold challenge to classics, a play of contrasts and unexpected notes that are remembered from the first breath. If you are looking for scents that can surprise and captivate, you have definitely heard at least one work of this master.
The biography of Merlin Cleoff is the story of a man who turned passion into profession. Unlike graduates of prestigious perfumery schools in Grasse, his journey began with experiments: he mixed essential oils in a home laboratory, studied the chemistry of scents, and sought his own voice. Years of travel, inspiration from ancient cultures and modern art shaped his unique vision. And when the time came to create his own brand, Cleoff decided not to adapt to trends but to dictate his own rules — thus Lost Academy was born.
What distinguishes perfumer Merlin Cleoff is his fearlessness in working with ingredients. He loves dissonances — sweet and bitter, fresh and smoky, natural and synthetic. Take Lost Academy — Golden Peach: juicy peach here coexists with black pepper and frankincense, creating an effect of a 'broken ideal'. And Lost Academy — Hard to Please is pure character: iris, leather and bitter chocolate, both daring and elegant. These scents have already become cult favorites among connoisseurs of complex compositions.
Among the most famous works of Merlin is Lost Academy — Never Look Back, a dedication to freedom and moving forward. Its notes include sea salt, dry vetiver, and campfire smoke. Lost Academy — Cretan Vagabond transports you to Greek islands: thyme, honey, and dry wood under the scorching sun. But Cleoff's calling card is rightfully Lost Academy — Paradise Lost — a complex, almost baroque composition with frankincense, leather, rose, and oud. It shows that paradise lost can smell exactly like this: unsettling, sensual, and beautiful.
Despite remaining in the shadow of large perfume corporations, Merlin Cleoff's impact on the niche segment is enormous. His fragrances regularly receive high ratings in perfumery communities. Users note that each work by Cleoff is a story you want to unravel. His boldness in experiments has inspired a whole wave of young independent perfumers. And while Lost Academy releases new masterpieces, we are sure: Merlin Cleoff will surprise the world more than once.
If you want to get acquainted with the work of this master, start with his biggest hits — form your own opinion and be sure to share your reviews. After all, perfumery, like art, lives in dialogue.
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