Leonid Maleshin

Leonid Maleshin

Feb. 16, 2026

5/5

5

Don Alberto, without a doubt, was the first to popularize this "suitcase" captive Woodleather from Firmenich. He unleashed a flurry of buzz in the perfume world, then created a "for the rich" version - Dark Lord, and its more accessible clone - No Limit$. He started speculating on this theme and continues to do so, but honestly, it's not his fault. This leather is truly magnificent! From the very beginning, I considered Gucci Guilty Absolute a kind of foundation upon which various olfactory structures could be built. And, as it turned out, the base was so successful that I can't recall a single unsuccessful fragrance using it. It's a really cool thing, although with frequent use, it can become tiresome. Jo Malone wasn't among the first to try this leather (Gucci came out in 2017), but in my opinion, their Bronze Wood & Leather is one of the most interesting scents on this theme. It starts with a bright accord of grapefruit zest. And grapefruit isn't here by chance. There's no sparkling freshness in the scent, nor is it needed. What's present is precisely the bitter smell of peel and white pith. Immediately, the leather accord begins to sound. It's strange that it's listed second in the name, as the entire fragrance is built upon it. Perhaps it's more poetic that way. This leather is not kirza leather at all. It's not rough or stiff, but not soft like kid leather either. This is real leather, the kind that delights fans of Gucci and Dark Lord. An expensive old leather item. It doesn't matter if it's a suitcase or a wallet - that's how good old things used to smell. I hardly ever encounter such a smell in modern leather goods now. Either I'm unlucky, or different tanning agents are probably used. Unlike Guilty Absolute, the Jo Malone scent doesn't have the sourness of cypress and dried grass. Here, juniper acts as the woody note