Volatility of notes: why the fragrance changes on the skin
You spritzed your favorite perfume in the morning, but by evening your skin smells like a different ...
Charles Caruso is a figure well known to connoisseurs of niche perfumery, a master whose path to the heights of mastery lay through the most prestigious perfume laboratories in Paris. His career is a story of deep continuity and an authentic approach to creating fragrances, where the classical school meets the modern vision.
Charles' professional development began in the 1970s at Charabot, where he learned the basics of the art of perfumery while working with natural raw materials. However, the legendary laboratory of Jean Amel, a virtuoso perfumer who created fragrances for Dior, Caron, and Yves Saint Laurent. It was there that Caruso honed his unique style, learning to create complex but impeccably balanced compositions. Later, his talent was sought after by industry giants such as Berdoues and Eutopie, where he was given the creative freedom to bring his boldest ideas to life.
Caruso is called an "aromatic makeup artist" — he works with perfumes like an artist with a palette, masterfully placing accents and creating volume. His style is characterized by bold contrasts: he skillfully combines thick, resinous oriental accords with the crystal clarity of transparent notes, and sensual vanilla with the tartness of spicy wood. He works particularly masterfully with the oud accord, not overwhelming the composition with it, but using it as a precious backdrop to reveal other ingredients.
Among Charles Caruso's most iconic works are fragrances that have become the hallmark of brands. His perfumes for the Berdoues Grand Cru collection are considered the benchmark for a niche approach. For example, Oud Wa Vanillia is a luxurious duet where noble oud dances in the sweet embrace of vanilla and caramel, creating an image of incredible warmth and comfort. Oud Wa Ward is a more daring and floral interpretation of the theme, where rose, permeated with smoky wood, sounds modern and elegant.
For the Eutopie brand, the perfumer has created a whole series exploring the facets of urban aesthetics. Eutopie No. 1 is a fresh and energetic citrus-green accord reminiscent of the first breath of air in a big city. Eutopie No. 4, on the other hand, is a deep, meditative composition based on incense and leather, enveloping the wearer in an aura of mystery and calm strength. These fragrances regularly top the ratings and garner rave reviews from connoisseurs, who praise their complexity and long-lasting sillage.
Working on projects for Berdoues and Eutopie, Charles Caruso has proven that true perfumery is not just a mixture of notes, but the creation of a story and emotion. His contribution to the industry lies in his ability to make exclusive, rich compositions accessible to understand and experience, which is what makes his work so beloved among true fans of the art of fragrance. Today, his creations are not just perfumes, but true collector's items that tell the story of the master's journey through the world of scents.
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