Quality control in perfumery: how fragrances are tested
We are used to thinking of perfume as pure art: the perfumer's inspiration, a beautiful story, a bot...
Olivia Giacobetti is one of the most influential and recognizable figures in the world of niche perfumery. Her name has become synonymous with transparent, poetic and incredibly realistic fragrances that have redefined what perfume can be. Independent and free in her work, she has given the world iconic compositions for such houses as L'Artisan Parfumeur, Diptyque and Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle, as well as founded her own brand IUNX.
Olivia Giacobetti was born in 1966 in Northern France into a creative family: her father, Francis Giacobetti, was a famous fashion photographer. The decisive moment that determined her fate was watching Jean-Paul Rappeneau's movie "The Savage", where Yves Montand played the role of a perfumer. Inspired by this film, at the age of 17 Olivia traveled to Grasse - the world capital of perfumery - and began her career as an assistant perfumer at Robertet.
Already in 1990, she founded her own company Iskia to work as an independent author. Her first significant creation was the delicate fragrance Eau Rose for the fashion house Agnes B, but the real breakthrough came with the beginning of a long and fruitful collaboration with L'Artisan Parfumeur in 1993.
Olivia Giacobetti's style is often described as "airy" or "watercolor". She masterfully captures the essence of a fleeting moment and transforms it into a perfume composition: whether it is the smell of wet asphalt after a rain, blooming lilacs around the corner or ripe figs in the garden. Her perfumes lack heaviness and intrusiveness; instead, they offer lightness, transparency and a surprising naturalness. The key notes in her work are green, powdery, floral and woody accords that sound fresh and modern, creating a unique signature that cannot be confused.
During her career, Olivia Giacobetti has collaborated with dozens of prestigious houses, from niche to luxury. Her talent has been in demand at L'Artisan Parfumeur, for which she has created more than 20 fragrances, Diptyque, Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle and Hermès. She has also worked on projects for Estée Lauder, Victoria's Secret, Penhaligon's, Honore des Pres, D'Orsay, as well as for Hugo Boss and Guerlain. She has also created interior fragrances for the Costes Hotel in Paris, Bottega Veneta boutiques and the Comédie-Française theater.
Olivia Giacobetti's legacy includes true icons adored by connoisseurs around the world. These are, above all, Philosykos, the benchmark fig fragrance by Diptyque, and En Passant by Frédéric Malle, considered one of the best lilac compositions ever. For L'Artisan Parfumeur, she created the iconic Premier Figuier (the first fig perfume), the enigmatic Dzing! with notes of leather, and the mysterious Passage d'Enfer. Her list of popular works also includes delicate Hiris for Hermès, sensual Elixir for Penhaligon's, sunny Brasil Dream for Estée Lauder and many others, each of which became an event in the perfume world.
In 2003, with the support of Shiseido, Olivia founded her own brand IUNX, the concept of which was based on maximum purity and simplicity of fragrances. After a pause, the brand was revived in 2016 with a new boutique in Paris. Giacobetti is also known as a perfumer who is not afraid to experiment: her fragrance Dzing! sounds like the smell of a circus arena, while Passage d'Enfer is inspired by silence and tranquility. In 2020, she presented an updated version of her classic Passage d'Enfer Extrême, proving that her work continues to evolve and excite the hearts of her fans.
Olivia Giacobetti changed the landscape of niche perfumery forever, proving that perfume can be light, intellectual and emotional. From the melancholic lilac of En Passant to the juicy fig of Philosykos, her work is part of the collections of true connoisseurs and continues to inspire new generations of perfumers. Today, her name is a guarantee of unrivaled quality, poetry and that "airy trace" that makes a fragrance unforgettable.
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