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Samara, Russia
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Escentric Molecules Molecule 03
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To the fragrance:
Carven Paris Manille
This patchouli fragrance is simply a nightmare. The first thing that hits your nose is some icy camphor that seems to cut into your head and spread everywhere, leaving only unpleasant sensations. Following this sharp start, dark patchouli appears, but it's so dry and clean that it seems unnatural. I understand it's patchouli, but its boundaries are blurred, and it only causes bewilderment. The strangest thing is how the main note is handled. I looked at the pyramid, and instead of the expected vetiver and grapefruit, there were carambola and plum. This surprised me, but not in a good way. It seems the perfumer tried to create something similar to Red Vetiver Montale, but it only turned out confusing. Deep in the composition, I found some apricot-plum nuance which, together with musk, creates something strange and uncomfortable. I don't know what carambola smells like, but it seems to be responsible for this watery-tropical hint that you can only catch if you try very hard. The perfumer's work is surprising, but not in a positive sense - the fragrance is not multifaceted, but rather tangled and incomprehensible. If you like patchouli and modern chypres with fruits, then Paris-Manille might suit you, but I wouldn't recommend it 😒
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