Quality control in perfumery: how fragrances are tested
We are used to thinking of perfume as pure art: the perfumer's inspiration, a beautiful story, a bot...
Tiago Motta is a name that sounds fresh and confident on the niche perfume scene today. This perfumer, inspired by architecture and travel, creates fragrances that feel like moments frozen in a bottle. His approach to compositions is minimalist, emotional, and impeccably precise. Unlike many "noses," Tiago doesn't chase quantity—each of his works becomes a small work of art, filled with personal memories and cultural codes.
Born in sunny São Paulo, Tiago absorbed the layered scents of the tropical city from childhood: from freshly cut grass to sweetish wood and salty breeze. After school, he went to France, where he enrolled at the prestigious Givaudan Perfumery School in Grasse. It was there that the young Brazilian discovered the language of accords and realized that perfumery is not chemistry, but poetry. His early years working in the laboratories of large corporations gave him a technical foundation, but true freedom came with his own projects.
Tiago Motta is known for his work with two distinctive niche brands: Amyi and Fuli. For Amyi, he created one of the brand's most recognizable fragrances—Amyi - Amyi 5.22, where the scent of morning coffee and wet stone intertwine with notes of cedar and lime. And for Fuli, the perfumer developed an entire chronological collection dedicated to key dates of the 20th century. These fragrances are not just a line, but a true olfactory diary of an era.
The series of digital compositions from Fuli deserves special attention. Fuli - 1957—chrysanthemum, labdanum, and mineral accords referencing the space race. Fuli - 1959 smells of concrete and dry herbs—a tribute to modernist architecture. There are also warmer works: Fuli - 1984 with notes of leather, suede, and licorice; Fuli - 1989—sparkling champagne with pink pepper; and Fuli - 1992—a pure aldehyde explosion with vanilla and white flowers. The series concludes with Fuli - 1997—iris, smoke, and suede, evoking the club culture of the late nineties.
Tiago Motta calls his signature "architectural minimalism." He avoids excessive complexity, preferring to work with 5–7 bold notes, each carrying meaning. His arsenal includes rare materials: labdanum, guaiac wood, chrysanthemum, mineral accords. The perfumer believes that a fragrance should not "tell a story" but create a mood. That's why his compositions are often called "emotional portals," capable of instantly transporting you to another time or place.
On perfume forums and social media, his works receive enthusiastic reviews. Users note that Tiago's fragrances are a true find for those tired of standard fruity-floral compositions. "1957" is praised for its texture, "Amyi 5.22" for its atmosphere, and the entire Fuli collection is called "intellectual perfumery." The perfumer himself rarely gives interviews, but his fragrances speak louder than words.
Tiago Motta is one of those rare perfumers who isn't afraid to experiment with chronology and abstraction. His works are not just perfumes, but philosophical statements about time, memory, and materiality. If you're looking for fragrances that make you think and at the same time provide aesthetic pleasure, take a closer look at the creations of this Brazilian master. We're sure you'll find among them your companion for everyday wear or a special evening.
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