Volatility of notes: why the fragrance changes on the skin
You spritzed your favorite perfume in the morning, but by evening your skin smells like a different ...
Perfume extract
Grimoire Parfums Penanggal
Gender:
Unisex
Segment:
Lux perfumes
Fragrance information:
Penanggal — an extrait with a tropical character
Penanggal Parfums by Grimoire Parfums is an unusual unisex fragrance released in 2025.
The Australian brand placed it in the Ex Fabularum collection, whose name seems to invite us to view perfumery through the lens of myths, fantasies, and whimsical imagery.
In character, it is a chypre-floral composition in parfum concentration, or Extrait de Parfum.
Penanggal was created by perfumer Trung Vu, also known as the brand’s owner.
His signature here is expressed through a bold combination of juicy citrus fruits, exotic fruits, white flowers, spices, and a deep mossy-ambery base.
The fragrance does not aspire to be a carefree tropical accord: it has intrigue, contrast, and a touch of dark mystique.
How the fragrance unfolds
Penanggal opens brightly and expansively: calamondin, mandarin, and pomelo create a sparkling citrus wave, while papaya adds soft, juicy fruitiness.
Ginger and coriander bring a dry spiciness, while elemi lends the opening a resinous, balsamic nuance.
From the very first minutes, the composition shows that this is not a simple fresh citrus fragrance, but a multilayered perfume with a distinct character.
As it develops, the citrus-fruity accord becomes floral.
Frangipani, magnolia, and ylang-ylang form a creamy, sunlit heart with expressive white florals, while broom adds a soft green-honeyed nuance.
The floral aspect is pronounced but does not lose its dynamism: spicy and resinous facets continue to support the composition and keep it from becoming overly sweet.
Penanggal’s finish is dense, warm, and memorable.
Amber and sandalwood create a smooth woody glow, musk makes the trail rounder, and oakmoss adds characteristic chypre dryness.
Clove intensifies the spicy contrast, so the base feels not only comforting but also slightly mysterious—as though a darker story were hidden behind the beautiful floral façade.
Character, sillage, and wearability
Penanggal is positioned as a unisex perfume and can sound equally natural on a woman or a man, provided they enjoy expressive floral chypres, ambery nuances, and spicy compositions.
Its sillage is described as very strong: the fragrance is noticeable in the surrounding space and particularly striking in cool weather, when the moss, amber, and sandalwood unfold more slowly and deeply.
For the office or a small room, it is best to start with a minimal number of sprays.
No precise recommendations for application to skin or clothing are provided, so it is sensible to test Penanggal gradually.
One spray on the skin is enough for a first impression; when applying it to clothing, bear in mind the high concentration of the extrait and its powerful sillage.
The ideal setting is an evening out, the cooler seasons, a special occasion, or any moment when you want a fragrance with a strong sense of individuality.
Its place in the collection and similar fragrances
Within Ex Fabularum, Penanggal stands out for its combination of tropical freshness and classic chypre depth.
It can be recommended to those seeking an unconventional fragrance with papaya, citrus fruits, and white flowers, but who prefer a composition that concludes with a mossy-woody and ambery accord.
As a direction for further exploration, consider Emanuel Ungaro Diva, as well as Agent Provocateur Petale Noir and Calvin Klein Escape—not as exact copies, but as options for comparing expressive floral and chypre moods.
Other concentrations of Penanggal are not listed in the available data.
Even so, the existing Extrait de Parfum already demonstrates a rich, long-lasting presentation in which a bright opening gradually transitions into a floral heart and a powerful, warm base.
This is a fragrance for those who love discussing perfumery, seeking unexpected combinations of notes, and wearing compositions with a truly distinctive presence.
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