Mulberry Flower in perfumery — history, best perfumes, perfumers, pairings

What is Mulberry Flower in Perfumery

Mulberry flower is a rare and exquisite perfume note that imparts tenderness, lightness, and subtle sweetness to a fragrance. Unlike the vibrant fruits of the mulberry tree, its small inflorescences exude a muted, powdery-honey scent with green and herbal accents. In perfume compositions, this note adds airiness and elegant softness, often serving as the heart of floral-aldehyde or oriental-floral scents. It will appeal to connoisseurs of unique, delicate, and poetic scents who seek an alternative to more common floral notes.

Characteristics and Aromatic Profile

The scent of mulberry flower belongs to the floral olfactory family. Its character is complex: it reveals a honey-sweet base, similar to heliotrope, fresh green foliage, and a light powdery shade reminiscent of mimosa or freesia. The note has medium longevity and moderate intensity, beautifully unfolding in the heart note of the pyramid where it forms the core of the composition. Its airy, slightly sunny character makes it suitable for spring-summer perfumes, giving a sense of carefreeness and purity.

Origin and Extraction of the Note

Natural absolute or concrete of mulberry flower (Morus alba) is a great rarity in the perfume industry due to the difficulty and cost of extraction. More often, this note is recreated artificially, composing a delicate chord from synthetic and natural components. It may be based on shades of linalool, heliotropin, ionones (giving violet notes), and lactones responsible for creamy-coconut accents. This approach allows perfumers, such as Christine Nagel or Delphine Thierry, to consistently work with this capricious yet beautiful aromatic motif.

Popular Fragrances with Mulberry Flower Note

Although the note is considered niche, it can be found in perfumes of various price categories. A vivid example is the light and romantic Tous - Rosa Eau Legere, where it complements the rose. More accessible options are presented by Jeanne Arthes, for example, in the fragrance Love'n Blue. In the niche segment, it's worth noting Jorum Studio - Phloem by perfumer Euan McCall or the musky interpretation in Odore Mio - Mulberry Musk. Each of these perfumes reveals different facets of this amazing note.

What Notes Pair Well with Mulberry Flower

Thanks to its multifaceted nature, mulberry flower creates beautiful duets and chords. A classic combination is with other floral notes, especially clove or geranium to add spiciness. Green and citrus notes (bergamot, violet leaf) highlight its fresh side, while vanilla, subtle musk, or sandalwood add warmth and longevity in the base. Interesting alternatives or complements to this note include the powdery freesia and the sweetish heliotrope.

Tips for Choosing Fragrances with This Note

Fragrances with a mulberry flower accord are an excellent choice for romantic, sensual individuals who value subtle beauty. They are ideal for daily wear, dates, and office settings, as they are not aggressive and are perceived very positively. The best time for such perfumes is spring and summer, when their airiness unfolds fully. When choosing, pay attention to the entire pyramid: if there are woody or musky notes in the base, as in Benetton Bianco, the perfume will be suitable even for transitional seasons. Apply it to warm pulse points for the best release of this delicate note.

Conclusion

Mulberry flower is a hidden gem in the world of perfumery, a symbol of delicate and exquisite beauty. Its honey-powdery, slightly green scent adds uniqueness and depth to compositions without drawing too much attention. From niche experiments by Jorum Studio to accessible floral bouquets by Tous, this note finds its place in the creativity of many perfumers. Explore fragrances with this note to discover a new, poetic shade in the palette of floral scents.