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Saint Petersburg, Russia
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Brunhilde Mara de Guidi's brand has released only six fragrances in its history, the last of which appeared in 2015, and then disappeared in the mid-2010s. The fragrances, inspired by the tragedy of "Romeo and Juliet," as well as Gioconda and Anne Hathaway, Shakespeare's wife, surprise with their intellectuality, yet are not devoid of irony and lightness. For example, Ballo in Maschera is something strange, where you can catch notes of corn silk among coconut, hyacinth, and tiare. I can't tell if I like it or not 🤔
When the sun is at its zenith, the world fills with incredible light, creating an atmosphere as if enveloped in a milky haze. In such moments on the Italian coast, you can catch this magical glow. The sea here seems to reflect white light, filling everything around with passion and warmth, like fire under ice. The Lumiere Blanche fragrance attracts with its contrast of temperatures and textures. Perfumer Sidonie Lancesseur blended iris, almond milk, and tonka beans into it, also adding cardamom, star anise, and cinnamon. This spicy accord brings freshness and clarity to thoughts, helping to get rid of worries - exactly what's needed for a sound sleep
The sixth edition of this collection is just another "primer," as if you can't do without it. Musc Noir Perfume Enhancer might seem standalone, of course, but in reality, it's just a set of notes: jasmine, iris, musk, and wood. Nothing special, to be honest. Perfumer Leslie Gauthier calls it a "silvery weightless cloud," but I think that's just empty talk ))
This musk, of course, is capricious and can be quite unpleasant. Often it just gets lost in the smell of orange blossom soap or gives off a musty powder. But if you're lucky, you can catch it in its best light. Then an amazing balance of aldehydes, musk, and ylang-ylang in a retro style unfolds. Although, yes, a soapy note is still present, the Givaudan version sounds much more interesting and vibrant than Putain des Palaces by Etat Libre d`Orange
The scent, like a riot of wild grasses, immerses you in an atmosphere where freedom reigns. It brings to mind Edmund Shklyarsky singing about an "ocean of grasses" from that very vinyl record. Here, among the curly grasses, as if on the pages of Walt Whitman's poems, you feel a primal force - galbanum. Its sharp aroma, like a wave, covers you, and it seems to have no end. On the surface of this sea, sun glints begin to play - citruses appear. Among the lush vegetation, the first islands emerge, striving to occupy more and more space. Beyond the grasses, slender trees grow, on which gum forms, filling the forest with freshness. "Panorama" has no intrusive sweetness, like in luxury fragrances, nor the pretentiousness of niche ones - only the sincere, natural scent of summer greenery under soft sunlight. It is light and fresh, creating an atmosphere of relaxation. This is exactly what you need when you have a couple of extra days off 🌿
Nicolas Ghesquière, after leaving his post as creative director of Balenciaga in 2012, managed to create many interesting things, including in perfumery. For example, the violet Balenciaga Paris, its L'Essence version, and the youthful Florabotanica. L'Essence can be called a fragrance that suits everyone who doesn't divide perfumery into masculine and feminine, but chooses according to their preferences 🌸 The violet accord here constantly changes: sometimes fresh leaves soaked in the smell of earth, sometimes flowers in frankincense smoke, and sometimes even a metallic, aluminum taste is felt. The floral powder of Balenciaga Paris is recognizable, but perfumer Olivier Polge focused on damp greenery, like after rain, with the addition of vetiver. The fragrance is introverted and gloomy, reminiscent of the forest from Lars von Trier's film "Antichrist," where Ghesquière's muse Charlotte Gainsbourg starred 🍃
Aedes de Venustas, at certain moments, really reminds me of Comme des Garcons 2, especially when it comes to the incense note. But it has something completely unique and elusive. Imagine tomato leaves mixed with incense, and on top of it all, sprinkled with sour berries, like red currants, and refreshing Granny Smith green apple!!! This bitter, nutty undertone gives Aedes de Venustas incredible chic, as if it's dressed in luxurious lilac velvet with golden accents. Sometimes the combination of incense and leaves creates a bright juniper hue - it feels like you're diving into a glass of gin, greedily inhaling its aroma. Aedes de Venustas is true perfumery rock and roll, challenging dullness and boredom. It takes all your energy and forces you to confront a deep truth: it's an unliftable monolith, for which a thousand words wouldn't be enough to describe its essence
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