Quality control in perfumery: how fragrances are tested
We are used to thinking of perfume as pure art: the perfumer's inspiration, a beautiful story, a bot...
Eau de parfum
Le Labo Oud 27
Gender:
Unisex
Segment:
Lux perfumes
Fragrance information:
Le Labo launched Oud 27 in 2009 — and it was a brilliant move. By character, a unisex fragrance drawing from the east and wood families. Perfumers Fabrice Penot and Vincent Schaller joined forces to create something truly special. Concentration — eau de parfum: exactly what it needs to be.
It has a very delicate sillage, staying close and personal. The longevity of this fragrance is moderate — exactly what most occasions call for. Brand country — the United States, with its deep-rooted relationship with the fragrance industry. Oud 27 Le Labo — the choice of those who appreciate depth and character in every detail.
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At the same time, the base of the fragrance is woody, created using soft cedar and smoky vetiver.
I detect light notes of frankincense resinoid or another balsamic component, which, together with cashmeran and isobutylquinoline, gives the fragrance order and a clear leathery-woody character. The woody density is slightly diluted by floral accents of rose and jasmine, which deepen the animalic accord and add new nuances.
The animalic accord appears immediately, it's bright and sharp, even shocking for an unprepared nose, but its intensity subsides towards the end. The manufacturer mentions civet, but I perceive more castoreum with its characteristic gouache smell and indole. The animalic part sounds unnatural: it's quite chemical and even pungent, as if intentionally highlighted. Oud 27 looks provocative, as if created to surprise. If you work with people, it's better not to wear it to work. Such fragrances are more suitable for solitude or for communicating with those who share your passion for dirty and sharp smells