Alla Podusova

Alla Podusova

Feb. 16, 2026

4/5

4

If you think natural oud smells like it does in most popular fragrances, you're greatly mistaken. Oudh Infini by Pissara presents a completely different approach to this component. Here, oud unfolds with fecal and smoky notes, as well as light but noticeable hints of damp hay. It's not just added to the composition; it plays a key role, forming the structure of the fragrance. <br><br>Unfortunately, even perfumers who can afford to use natural oud don't always achieve the desired expressiveness. Umawadee, however, uses classic techniques, such as combining patchouli and cashmeran, sometimes adding Javanese vetiver. This enhances the intense fecal notes, and civet adds even more depth. As a result, the damp hay nuance becomes something like a wild animal's bedding.<br><br>In contrast to this animalistic exuberance, a rose note emerges. It sometimes disappears against the background of other components, then suddenly flares up with bright burgundy petals, creating volume and a light floral sweetness. Against this backdrop, woody notes seem slightly damp, and the oud acquires a honey-cheesy, slightly moldy hue, which is accentuated by patchouli.<br><br>Oudh Infini is, without a doubt, a complex and challenging fragrance from Parfums Dusita. To appreciate it, you truly need to love natural oud and animalic scents. I can't imagine where one could wear it, but at home, for oneself, perhaps it makes sense. In my case - definitely not )

Alla Podusova

Feb. 16, 2026

3/5

3

The new Mon Guerlain flanker once again confirms that this fragrance is still on-trend, especially when it comes to vanilla lavender. In my opinion, the new version reminds me more of an eau de toilette than the original. Initially, it truly delights with its sparkling, effervescent opening with notes of pear and lavender, which slightly resembles Libre by Yves Saint Laurent, although in reality they are completely different. However, this bright accord quickly fades, and the fragrance loses its sparkle. It has a lot of musk, which together with lavender creates a feeling of soapy freshness. But thanks to the vanilla-balsamic base, it doesn't devolve into too much of a soapy effect, but rather becomes warmer and more complex. The profile of the original Mon Guerlain is easily recognizable, but this flanker has more lightness and space, filled with aromatic lavender with green notes. Surprisingly, the lavender here is long-lasting, though not camphoraceous. Thanks to its freshness and purity, Sparkling Bouquet might even be interesting for men, so I would recommend giving it a try

Alla Podusova

Feb. 16, 2026

3/5

3

The scent of tuberose has always evoked associations with Paris for me, just like the scent of orange blossom. The tenderness and elegance of these notes create an atmosphere of romance and a slightly old-fashioned beauty, which, in my opinion, is perfectly suited for one of the most beautiful cities in the world. But New York - I've never been there. Maybe it's not at all like they describe it, and life in this metropolis is truly full of energy and freedom, without melancholy or regrets. But that's not so important. The main thing is - Tubereuse 40 doesn't smell like tuberose. It's something in between orange blossom, neroli, and bergamot, with a slight touch of old-fashioned musk, sandalwood, and a drop of unsweetened vanilla. New York is a white floral fragrance that reminds me of Cologne Indelebile by Frederic Malle, but Le Labo's work sounds softer and calmer. In this fragrance, there's a sense of elegance and aristocracy, a kind of touching sincerity. It evokes memories of French colognes, which are ideal for starting the day. Vanilla and musk give New York a modest but captivating femininity that soothes and creates comfort, like a quiet song with a distinct French accent 🎶

Alla Podusova

Feb. 16, 2026

3/5

3

#Hashtag from the Spanish brand 27 87, owned by Romy Kowalewski, reveals frankincense from an unexpected side. Perfumer Daniela Andrier, known for her work for Prada, created a fragrance that seems aimed at millennials, to whom thirty-one-year-old Romy also belongs. This cold frankincense-aquatic composition with mint and violet leaves leaves a feeling of emptiness. One could say it's even “molecular” - unexpressive, yet modern, with a delicate and light character. But can one truly claim that nothing like it existed before? Serge Lutens' L'Eau Froide could have taken its place, although the frankincense accord there is more traditional, based on aldehydes. Besides, Serge Lutens' work is already on this list )

Alla Podusova

Feb. 16, 2026

4/5

4

Usually dessert is served at the end, and I try to stick to that rule when reviewing collections. But this time, I want to start with a fragrance that, in my opinion, stands out among the others in the Renaissance collection. Although, perhaps calling it the best isn't entirely accurate - it simply reminds me of those Amouage fragrances that were at the peak of their popularity. It reminds me, but it's not quite the same. Apparently, the task for perfumer Domitille Michalon-Bertier was quite simple. Renaud Salmon went to the Hajar mountains, where he felt peace and tranquility, and decided to create a fragrance that would convey this. As inspiration, he took the color of the rock, a red hue consisting of sandstone. And what could be redder than cherry and rose? Initially, he thought of combining notes of rose and Omani honey, but, as he himself said, he had to abandon the honey due to its excessive sweetness. Moreover, in the mountains, Omanis cultivate roses for rose water, doing so by an ancient method in clay ovens fueled by wood. As a result, the rose water loses its floral aroma and becomes more woody and smoky. I didn't immediately notice the rose in Crimson Rocks, and what I did notice was rather strange and not entirely plausible. I wouldn't say this rose is unpleasant, it just doesn't align with the integrity of Amouage's ingredients and reminds me of something else, like in Tom Ford's Rose Prick. For me, the prominent elements of the fragrance were cinnamon and cherry, which, yes, really stand out. This cherry seems to float in a spicy, sweet cloud, where the other notes are hidden. But this cloud is filled with cinnamon dust, woody chips, and sweet honey. Nothing extraordinary, but the perfumer managed to combine the accords interestingly. Cinnamon connects with cherry, cherry is part of the rose, and honey adds sweetness

Alla Podusova

Feb. 16, 2026

5/5

5

Splendiris really smells of iris, but its peculiarity is that both vintage and modern notes are successfully combined in one formula. The entire composition is built on this contrast. The fragrance is dedicated to the iris flower and represents an interesting interpretation of its scent, which can vary greatly depending on the variety. Although Splendiris has a powdery undertone, it is not heavy, but rather light and delicate, like a violet. Umawijani creates the "vintage" part of the fragrance with ionones and aldehydes, making it similar to the modern classic Iris Poudree by Frédéric Malle. A bright lemon-bergamot accord adds freshness, creating a light green haze over a milky-powdery base. Sandalwood gives the fragrance roundness and weight. The modern part of Splendiris is built on the transparent radiance of ambroxan and a mineral accord, as well as a slightly bitter-green stemone, which, together with violet leaf, creates an interesting green hue. The green accord adds dynamism and layering; it appears and disappears as if in a dance with jasmine. The mineral accord resembles the smell of damp plaster, which sounds very contemporary and creates the atmosphere of the first spring rains. The musk in this fragrance gives it a slight resemblance to classic Dove soap, but it fits so harmoniously into the overall composition that it's interesting to observe the fragrance. Between all these notes, there's a sweetish floral accord that adds lightness. Splendiris turned out to be truly special. It's bright but not intrusive, modern but with a classic character. Perhaps it lacks some balance, and I would soften some notes a bit, but even as it is, it remains a must-try. The color of the liquid in the bottle, in my opinion, perfectly reflects the essence of the compos

Alla Podusova

Feb. 16, 2026

4/5

4

«Indelible Cologne» is another work created in tandem with Dominique Ropion, released in 2015. The name of the fragrance seems to hint at a common problem for all cologne lovers - fresh citrus notes which, alas, by the laws of physics cannot be long-lasting. The perfumer was given a difficult task: to create a cologne that would overshadow all others in terms of longevity. Cologne Indelebile is a kind of experiment in a familiar area for us. Ropion removed all aromatic and green notes usually inherent in colognes, leaving only citrus: bergamot, lemon, and neroli. Although, to be honest, neroli is more of a floral note than a citrus one. In any case, it is neroli and orange blossom that become the main characters of the fragrance. In my opinion, Dominique Ropion is one of those perfumers who truly knows how to work with orange blossom. In his interpretation, orange blossom fragrances sound especially appealing. In Cologne Indelebile, neroli and orange blossom initially sound at the same level, but soon the sweetish-honeyed orange blossom begins to dominate. It intertwines with musk and remains until the very end. But can this be called a cologne? Perhaps only in terms of lightness and comfort. The classic structure is not observed here. Nevertheless, it is indeed a beautiful floral composition dedicated to orange blossom. Who needs Cologne Indelebile? Everyone who adores orange blossom fragrances. Those who prefer light, sparkling, and flowing compositions, yet not devoid of elegance and charm. It is perfect for everyday office wear, as it is unobtrusive and delicate