Scent as part of identity: finding your perfume signature
There are people we recognize before we see them. They are still in the hallway, but their familiar ...
In the world of niche perfumery, where every fragrance is a story, Serge Lutens Tubereuse Criminelle stands out as a bold and mysterious statement.
Released in 1999, it instantly became cult, challenging traditional notions of floral compositions.
This perfume is part of the Gratte-Ciel collection, which emphasizes its architectural complexity and upward aspiration, similar to skyscrapers.
Founded by the house of Serge Lutens, a visionary brand that creates entire universes through scents, Tubereuse Criminelle reflects the boldness and artistic vision of its founder.
Positioned as unisex, Tubereuse Criminelle breaks gender stereotypes, inviting everyone who values depth and provocation to wear it.
In the concentration of Perfume Water, it has an intense and long-lasting character, with a noticeable trail that leaves an unforgettable trace.
This fragrance is perfectly suited for evening outings or special moments when you want to emphasize your individuality and courage.
It is not afraid to be loud and memorable, attracting compliments and discussions.
Behind the creation of Tubereuse Criminelle are two outstanding perfumers: Christopher Sheldrake and Serge Lutens.
Their collaboration led to the birth of a fragrance that reinterprets tuberose, adding a criminal, almost shocking shade to it.
This release strengthened Serge Lutens' reputation as an innovator, willing to take risks and create perfumes that become objects of worship and discussion among connoisseurs.
The influence of Tubereuse Criminelle is still felt today, inspiring new generations of fragrances to bold experiments.
If Tubereuse Criminelle has captivated you with its boldness, it's worth paying attention to other perfumes that also explore the theme of tuberose or offer provocative chords.
For example, Franck Boclet Cocaïne plays with scandalous notes, while Faberlic Bouquet de Nuit and Carolina Herrera Herrera Tuberose offer more classical, yet no less fascinating interpretations of floral themes.
These fragrances can be a logical continuation of your journey into the world of bold scents.
The fragrance is very long-lasting, staying on the skin for 12 hours or more, gradually revealing its notes
The scent is clearly present near you, but it does not fill the entire space
The perfume has a rich aroma that will help you stand out from the crowd and create a memorable image
A rich and elegant fragrance that gently unfolds on the skin and lasts most of the day, leaving a delicate trail
Perfumes for the fall and winter seasons often contain notes of vanilla, spices, ambergris, wood, and other warm accords, creating a feeling of comfort and warmth during the cold months
The note pyramid of Tubereuse Criminelle is a harmonious and complex interplay of chords, where each note plays its role in creating a unique character.
The composition includes Tuberose as the central element, surrounded by Clove (spice) and Nutmeg, which add spicy sharpness and depth.
Floral accents, such as Hyacinth, Jasmine, and Orange blossom (flor de azahar), impart tenderness and airiness to the composition, contrasting with the darker notes.
In the base, Styrax, Vanilla, and Musk create a warm, balsamic, and sensual finish that lingers on the skin, unfolding gradually and enveloping you in a soft trail.
This combination makes the fragrance multifaceted and intriguing, inviting repeated discoveries with each application.
| Gender | Unisex |
| Brand | Serge Lutens |
| Segment | Niche perfumery |
| Country | France |
| Website | https://sergelutens.com |
| Year of production | 1999 |
| Status | Produced |
| Concentration | Eau de parfum |
| License holder | Shiseido Group |
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It might sound strange, but this has nothing to do with perfume psychology. Lutens released 'Tubéreuse Criminelle' in 1999 with perfumer Christopher Sheldrake, and I would call it the brand's most controversial fragrance. Initially, it was part of an exclusive collection, and then in 2011, it joined the main line. This tuberose is a true flower of evil. At first, it's cold and medicinal, but it gradually warms up with spices, though it still remains far from the usual sweet tuberoses.
Its composition includes jasmine, ylang-ylang, and, of course, tuberose, but with green and bitter notes. The fragrance has something plasticky, as if something burned, leaving only scars. But amidst all this chaos, a small flame of the tuberose flower quietly shines, tender and milky. However, even that will eventually disappear, only to be reborn in the next drop of perfume. The duality of the composition, for which I could have loved it, is not so clearly expressed. To me, it seems old-fashioned and too muddled. But, like all Lutens fragrances, it elegantly tells of its contradictions. The fragrance changed several times, and its export version became more friendly - floral and sweet, with fewer medicinal notes than the original 🌸